Otros colegas iban llegando a la zona. El oleaje crecido traía consigo trayectos y maniobras. Cerca del Muro, el espacio comenzaba reducirse y las olas arrancaban viajes que se repartían por turnos. Sobre una tabla raspada de cera se levantó un chico. El golpe de mar lo empujó hacia adelante. Zigzageando, evitó a los compañeros. trazando su viaje cerca de la cresta, alcanzó larga distancia. La onda ofrecía una pared lisa de media altura que arrastraba agua enfurecida y dificultaba el camino. Viendo sus maniobras disfrutábamos de la experiencia. Arrollado por una envestida del mar, mantuvo el equilibrio. Bordeando la espuma continuo hasta la cara limpia que había más allá. La velocidad lo alejó del área, para terminar cerca de la rampa de acceso.

El paseo contiguo al Muro contaba con público. Personas yendo y viniendo, reposando, mirando al mar. Atraídas por las olas, el bullicio, el ruido que llegaba desde más abajo. Una onda mediana arribó hasta mi posición, bailando a los surfers que había delante. Chocó contra la pared. De repente, el nivel del mar ascendió un par de metros. El trayecto nació a partir de una sacudida. La estrecha cima dispuso un plano vertical que precipitó mi descenso hasta la base. Curvando en dirección la cresta, de nuevo, recorrí la onda en su mitad. Esta vez al agua cabalgaba hacia la arena. Engordando en su avance, 20 metros adelante rompió sobre la superficie borrando el trayecto.

The Wall. Autumn waves. IV

Other colleagues were coming to the zone. The large surge was bringing with it distances and maneuvers. Near the Wall, the space began to diminish and the waves were starting trips that were distributed by shifts. On a board scraped of wax, a boy got up. The large wave pushed him ahead. Zigzaging, he avoided the companions. Planning his trip near the comb, he reached long distance. The wave was offering a smooth wall of medium-height that was dragging water furious and was impeding the way. Seeing his maneuvers we were enjoying the experience. Rolled up by an assault of the sea, he supported the balance. Bordering on the foam, continued up to the clean face that existed beyond. The speed removed him from the area, to end near the ramp of access.

The promenade contiguous to the Wall was possessing audience. Persons going and coming, resting, looking at the sea. Attracted by the waves, the hustle, the noise that was coming from below. A medium wave arrived up to my position, dancing the surfers that were ahead. It hit against the wall. Suddenly, the level of the sea increased a couple of meters. The journey was born from a jolt. The narrow top arranged a vertical plane that precipitated my decrease up to the base. Curling in direction the comb, again, I crossed the wave in his half. This time to the water was riding towards the sand. Putting on weight in his advance, 20 meters forward it broke on the surface erasing the route.