Ajo, agua sobre agua. II
En un cuarto de hora, el día había cambiado. Las nubes continuaron llegando y el mediodía se asemejó al anochecer. Sentado sobre la tabla sentía el viento rodearme. Las olas pararon por un momento, conservando el mar un suave movimiento ondulante; visible en su superficie.
La gente que estaba en la playa empezó a retirarse hacia el aparcamiento. Un grupo de niños seguía jugando cerca de la orilla. Poco después Cuberris quedó vacía. En el agua nadie quería abandonar. Mirando mar adentro, el horizonte se mezclaba con el color oscuro de las nubes; multiplicando la sensación de inmensidad. Al rato, una ola asomó con ruido de fondo. La nubosidad dificultaba anticipar el movimiento de las series. Me coloque en posición. Llegó con suavidad, rompiendo por mi derecha. Baje hasta la base, para dirigirme después a la cima. Repetí esta maniobra hasta avanzar pegado a su pared durante unos segundos que parecieron cientos; por la intensidad. Otros surfers, delante de mí, iban también cabalgando. Un cierre apareció entre nosotros. Salté al agua, entrando limpiamente; con la tabla alejada.
Transcurrió media hora, en la arena, algunos colegas iban despegando su belcro, cargando sus tablas y caminando hacia el parking. Parecían dar por finalizada la sesión. El cielo se despejó ligeramente en ese tiempo. La claridad recuperó gran parte del espacio inicial. Busqué las mejores zonas y fui observando las olas que llegaban. En un lateral, a 50 metros de la orilla, una ola pequeña y regular se repetía. La zona aglutinaba mayor número de gente. Surfers entrando, saliendo, respetando el turno. El jaleo de las conversaciones y emociones se escuchaba de lejos. Empujé mi tabla al nuevo punto. Otros colegas vinieron detrás. El área se pobló.
La gente más veterana trazaba con maestría el pequeño regalo que allí aparecía. Algún novel imitaba los movimientos de estos, sin conseguir acabar el viaje. La experiencia y el conocimiento de la zona convertían una pequeña oportunidad en una gran diversión. Observar aquello resultaba adictivo. Ensimismado en el espectáculo, pensé en las olas y los días, el tiempo desde el que se conocían. La fiesta tenía su ritmo y los turnos se rotaban. A treinta metros del epicentro, una ola desplazada y mayor de un metro se aproximaba. La lluvia apareció sobre nosotros, Suave y fina, alentando el movimiento. Cuando llegó a mi posición, remé con fuerza hasta subirme en ella. Permanecía en la cima, abriendo el trazado a izquierdas. La masa de agua sostenida movía un muro inclinado sin romper. Avanzando sobre el camino dibujado en el recorrido, impresioné una maniobra limpia y sencilla con forma de media luna. Esquivando la rotura contraria terminé el viaje, viendo como la ola se alejaba hasta la playa.
La lluvia que proseguía su marcha, había engordado. Era imposible ver más allá de quince metros. Permanecí en reposo durante un rato, esperando a que amainara. Otra gente se fue marchando. Cargado de emociones y sensaciones, los pensamientos disfrutaban alrededor de lo vivido hasta el momento. Las nubes pararon su actividad, y sólo repartían pequeñas gotas suspendidas en el aire. En el cielo un claro se abrió. Unos rayos de Sol se filtraron por aquel espacio, que se fue agrandando. Después de diez minutos el día había regresado a su inicio. Sobre el cielo, pasando por encima de las rocas y finalizando en el lado opuesto sobre la superficie del agua, apareció la figura semitranslúcida del arcoíris. Enmarcando el espacio, el tiempo y el día.
Ajo, water on water. II
In a quarter of hour, the day had changed. The clouds continued coming and the midday was alike the dusk. Sat on the board, the wind was surrounding me softly. The waves stopped for a moment. In the sea, a soft undulating movement which was visible in his surface, had been preserved .
The people who was in the beach started moving back towards the parking. A group of children continued playing near the shore. Little later Cuberris was empty. In the water nobody wanted to retire. Looking out to sea, the horizon was mixed by the dark color of the clouds, multiplying the sensation of immensity. Then, a wave began to appear with background noise. The cloudiness was impeding to anticipate the movement of the series. I placed in position. It came with smoothness, breaking for my right. I went down up to the base, to go later to the top. I repeated this maneuver up to advancing glued to its wall during a few seconds that seemed to be hundred; for the intensity. Other surfers, ahead me, were also riding. A closing appeared between us. I jumped cleanly to the water; with the board far away from me.
It passed half an hour, in the sand some colleagues were detaching the belcro, loading their board and walking towards the parking. They seemed to give for the session finished. The sky lightly cleared up in this time. The clarity recovered great part of the initial space. I looked for the best zones and was observing the waves that were coming. In a wing, to 50 meters of the shore, a small and regular wave had been repeating itself. The zone was agglutinating major number of people. The surfers were entering, going out, respecting the shift. The noise of the conversations and emotions was heard in the distant. I pushed my board to the new point. Other colleagues came behind. The area was populated.
The veterans were planning with mastery the small gift that was appearing there . Some beginners were imitating the movements of them, without managing to end the trip. The experience and the knowledge of the zone were turning a small opportunity into a great amusement. To observe all was turning out to be addictive. Enjoying the spectacle, I thought about the waves and the days, the time since both parts were known. The party had its pace and the shifts were rotated. To thirty meters of the epicentre, a displaced and major wave of a meter was coming closer. The rain appeared over us, Soft and thin, encouraging the movement. When it came to my position, I rowed strongly to caught it. I was in the top, the wave opened for left side. The mass of sharp water moved as a sloping wall without breaking. Advancing on the way that was drawing in the tour, I designed a clean and simple maneuver with form of half moon. Dodging the breakage contrary, I finish the journey; seeing as the wave was moving away up to the beach.
The rain that was continuing his march, had put on weight. It was impossible to see beyond fifteen meters. I remained in rest during awhile, hoping that it was going to subsiding. Another people were leaving. Loaded with emotions and sensations, the thoughts were enjoying about the experiences up to that moment. The clouds stopped its activity, and were distributing small drops suspended in the air. In the sky the clear one was opened. A few sunbeams were filtered through that space, which was enlarged. After ten minutes the day had returned to his beginning. On the sky, happening over the rocks and finishing in the opposite side on the surface of the water, appeared the figure semitranslucent of the arcoíris. Framing the space, the time and the day.
