El día amaneció nublado. El Sol asomaba tímidamente entre las nubes y el horizonte se dibujaba en una línea con un color entre gris y blanca. Después de consultar las predicciones preparé el equipo y me dirigí hacia Somo. Los dos metros y medio que se preveían aceleraron mi marcha.

En el aparcamiento, de la entrada principal de la playa, había pocos vehículos. De fondo retumbaba el sonido de las olas golpeando la orilla. En la playa apenas cuatro personas se concentraban en la misma zona. Ahora veía olas de tres metros avanzar con paso firme hasta la arena húmeda. El viento soplaba con brío y chocaba contra el neopreno provocando una sensación de confort. Al contacto con la cara me hacia despertar, por segunda vez. Contemplando el mar un hormigueo recorría mi cuerpo.

Entré en el agua por una vía cómoda y aproveche las corrientes para avanzar hacia mar adentro. La olas llegaban en serie empujando con fuerza. Haciendo la cuchara conseguí acercarme al mejor punto. Tras remontar la última ola, alcance una zona tranquila. Allí estaba todo el mundo. Me acerqué, saludé y nos pusimos a charlar animosamente. El día prometía emociones fuertes. La precaución y la emoción se entremezclaban a medida que transcurrían las series. Volví la mirada hacia la orilla que se encontraba lejos de nuestra posición. Entre nosotros y ella, las olas aglutinaban grandes masas de agua que terminaban por romper, trazando el recorrido de un lado al otro. Tranquilizaba saber que aunque había mucho tamaño existían buenas condiciones. Aún así, la impresión que causaba el agua al entubar, impresionaba.

Una nueva serie de olas apareció al fondo. Un surfer situado algo más atrás se subió en la primera de la serie. De derecha a izquierda se deslizó sobre la ola. Bajaba y subía, disfrutando su recorrido. La ondulación nos alcanzó a los demás. Elevados por la ola, le vimos correr delante del tubo que se iba formando. Su mano rozaba la pared de agua que le envolvía. Un grito y unas sonrisas. A continuación cogimos posición y espacio. Llegó una ola de otro compañero. Buscó velocidad y se perdió en la distancia. Caminaba hacia mi una gran ola. Con una altura aproximada de tres metros, engullía el agua de su base. El sonido que producía simuló en mi cabeza el más absoluto silencio. Giré mi cuerpo. Un golpe sacudió mi tabla. Asomado en su cresta maniobré con rapidez para descender hasta la base. El vértigo y la adrenalina dispararon mi concentración. Surfeé pegado a la pared de la ola, con el cuerpo flexionado mantúbe el equilibrio. Regresé a la base y de allí me dirigí hacia la cresta. La ola volcaba 20 metros adelante. Conseguí remontar, salté y me sumergí en el mar. La tabla sujeta a mi tobillo me esperó en la superficie.

Big Sea. Part A

The day dawned clouded. The Sun was showing shyly its light between the clouds and the horizon was drawn through a line with a color between gray and white. I consulted the predictions, then I prepared the equipment and went towards Somo. The two meters and a half that was in the forecasting made me accelerate the pace.

In the parking which is in the main entrance of the beach, there were few vehicles. The sound of the waves hitting the shore filled the atmosphere. On the beach just four people were concentrated in the same area. Now he saw waves of three meters that were moving with a firm step up to the damp sand. The wind was blowing energetically, striking against the neoprene causing a feeling of comfort. In contact with the face, it awaked me, for the second time. Looking at the sea a tingling ran through my body.

I got into the water by a comfortable track and I used the currents to reach out to open sea. The waves arrived periodically by pushing with force. Through the duck diving, I got closer to the right point. After defeating the last wave, I reached a quiet zone. Everyone were there. I approached them, I greeted and we began to talk animatedly. The day promised strong emotions. The caution and the emotion were intermingled while the waves were happening. I returned the gaze toward the shore, which was far from our position. Between it and us ,the waves were collecting big masses of water which eventually broke, tracing the path from one side to the other. This informed us that although there was much size there were good conditions. Even so, the impression that was causing the water through the roll, was amazed us.

A new series of waves appeared to the fund. A surfer, that was in the first line, went up into the first of the series. From right to left slipped on the wave. Was up and down, enjoying his travel. The ripple reached us. Up, we saw him run in front of the tube that was forming. His hand was rubbing the wall of water that was taking shape. A cry and some smiles. Then we took our position and each space. Came a wave of another partner. He was looking for speed and was lost in the distance. A big wave was walking to me. Its height of three meters drank the water from its bottom. The sound that was producing simulated in my head the most absolute silence. Turn my body. A shove shook my board. I was poked out to its top and I quickly went down to the bottom. The vertigo and adrenaline fired my concentration. Surfing near the wall of the wave, with the body flexed, I had balance. I returned to the base and I went toward the crest. The wave was breaking 20 meters ahead. I got ascended the wall, I jumped and I dove into the sea. The board subject to my ankle expected me in the surface.